'Mommy needs her wine!' Even if you're doing a DryJanuary, the jokes about using wine to cope with all the whine don't ever seem to stop. But what if the thing that makes everything better poses serious health risks
” is a phrase I hate. It couldn’t be more infantilizing. It sounds like you’re trying to appease a fussy baby:But whether we need it or want it, whether it’s a substitute for that yoga class pass we paid for but never use or the fact we haven’t been to a restaurant in months, we’re drinking it up. Women are consuming more alcohol more frequently than ever before—the numbers of those who report casual drinking, binge drinking and dependence are spiking, particularly for women older than 35.
As with any habit, the more you do it, the easier it is—and the more automatic it becomes. “Regular drinking on a daily basis builds tolerance,” says Catherine Paradis, senior research and policy analyst at the Canadian Centre on Substance Use and Addiction in Ottawa. “What happens when you want to celebrate something? You’ll have to drink more.” Habitual drinking, three or four times a week, increases tolerance and our risk of bingeing. And the stats bear this out.
Pan out a few decades, or maybe think back to the coolers you were drinking in the ’90s. Wine and spirits brands were flagging, as most men were swilling beer and women weren’t drinking nearly enough of anything. Like any smart multi-billion-dollar industry, it pivoted. Store shelves flooded with flavoured vodkas, colourful coolers and fizzy wines with prettier labels—gateway drinks. The plan worked like a charm. And as we’ve matured, our buzz of choice has, too, and we have more money to spend.
Photo: Roberto Caruso, On-figure styling: Shea Hurley, Hair + makeup: Sophie Hsin for Charlotte Tilbury, Special thanks to GAP + Banana RepublicThe brunch mimosa is so basic. Alcohol has now been pushed into service for all manner of daytime pursuits. Now that I’m looking, I see it everywhere. “There’s the stealth marketing of alcohol and the not-so-stealth,” says Wettlaufer.
Afterwards, I heard from many indignant moms who felt the critics assumed all mothers in attendance were out to get sloppy drunk—just one cold can of Ace Hill away from rehab. “We’re encouraged to drink: Here, mama, relax! But wait—don’t relax too much!” says one friend. “We’re policed at the same time. It’s just one more thing to worry about.
Over the years, alcohol, red wine in particular, has been reported to reduce the risk of heart disease, stroke and diabetes, and even protect against the common cold. “There’s a growing chorus of skepticism around these claims in the science community. We’re all scratching our heads, asking ourselves if it isn’t all too good to be true.”
Any benefits from moderate drinking may have less to do with alcohol and more to do with lifestyle, Stockwell says. People who drink discreetly tend to be more educated and better paid. They have gym memberships and health benefits; they jog, eat more quinoa and kale—and just happen to also drink alcohol. “So the whole thing is possibly a magnificent mirage.
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