With flavors like turmeric, sambal, and laksa leaves, chefs in Singapore are reimagining the country's centuries-old ingredients:
At Pangium, Lee is focused on reviving lost dishes and reimagining heritage ingredients.At his new sophomore endeavor Pangium, Lee’s culinary mission has broadened beyond the dishes of his Peranakan community to focus on understanding Singapore’s past and bringing it into the future. In the multicultural fabric of the country’s heritage cooking, Peranakan cuisine is only one component of the equation; Chinese, Malay, Indian, and Eurasian dishes also comprise Singapore’s heritage cooking.
The restaurant’s name is a nod to the spice paste rempah and to D’Silva’s reputation as a protector of Singapore’s heritage food.Now, it appears a resurgence of interest in the country’s heritage cooking is well underway. “We grew up in this modernizing Singapore,” says Wee. “I think it came to a point where we realized that we weren’t quite treasuring what we had.”
Though many in the community no longer have family ties in India or Malaysia, appreciating the food of one’s heritage can help maintain a poignant link to those ancestral roots. Pillay-Nair herself has “visceral connections to the past” anchored by vivid memories of her grandmother puttering around in the kitchen, and her family sitting on the floor eating food from banana leaves. “Now that they’ve gone, I’ve had to find ways to retrieve those old recipes,” she says.
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