The Double Life of Kale

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The Double Life of Kale
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From the Archives: The current kale craze in the United States might sound downright crazy to East Africans.

Nutritional and health benefits aside, kale’s recent popularity and the premium prices kale-based products command in the United States might seem comical, if not downright ridiculous, to many East Africans. In Kenya and Tanzania, kale is a key staple in highland farming communities, where it is referred to as, which in Swahili means “to push the week.

In East African cuisine, sukuma wiki, a common dish made with kale, is often accompanied by ugali, a dense maize-based porridge.In Kenya, kale is grown in small garden patches on almost all rural farms, as well as along public roadsides and in peri-urban and urban neighborhoods. It can even be found along main throughways and in small patches of open space in Nairobi itself, which, with a population of about 3.75 million, is East Africa’s largest metropolitan center.

Anthropologists have long been interested in how foods travel globally and take on varied meanings in different cultures, time periods, and social classes. In his classic book, Sidney Mintz describes how in the 17th century, sugar became an elite consumer item, grown mainly through slave labor in the Caribbean, but how, in more recent times, it has become associated with lower-income families and unhealthy diets.

My own collaborative work on contract farming in Africa documents how traditional foods such as chili peppers, yams, and mangoes are considered luxuries in upscale European markets, in stark contrast to their relatively lowly status in the places where they’re actually grown. The difference between the way kale is regarded in the United States and East Africa is another example of how a product’s social and cultural meanings can be radically transformed across space and context.

Kale’s discovery by affluent consumers in the United States is also a good illustration of just how much high-income societies can learn from the dietary habits of the poor. A recent study shows that 9 of the 10in the world today are found in Africa, the continent often considered the globe’s poorest and most agriculturally underdeveloped.

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