The most useful chicken dish I learned at Zuni Café was for staff meal.
Zuni Café in San Francisco, helmed by the late Judy Rodgers, is deservedly famous for its roast chicken,
one of the only things on the twice-changing daily menu that never leaves the line-up. It is, to be sure, extraordinary: a dry-brined Rolls Royce of a bird, whole-roasted from raw to order in a brick oven seasoned with almost 40 years of fat and fire.
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