All’Antico Vinaio, an extraordinarily popular sandwich shop that originated in Florence, Italy, before expanding to Milan and Rome, has opened its first U.S. outpost, in New York. Blair Beusman 10:43 AM
I won’t take a side in the battle over whether the city’s office workers should be expected to return to their desks as we shift with an ever-evolving pandemic. I will note that anyone with a desk in or near Midtown West might be incentivized by the promise of a superlative lunch. Last November, All’Antico Vinaio, an extraordinarily popular sandwich shop that originated in Florence, Italy, before expanding to Milan and Rome, opened its first U.S. outpost, in New York.
I ordered La Paradiso, tripling down on my favorite nut: thin coins of pistachio were spangled, like leopard spots, throughout floppy folds of mortadella that had been layered with an oily, pesto-like “pistachio cream” and stretchy stracciatella dusted in crushed pistachio, stacked between enormous rectangles of freshly baked schiacciata, a focaccia-adjacent Tuscan bread.
Towering stacks of schiacciata emerged from the basement at regular intervals, shiny with olive oil and sparkling with coarse salt, releasing clouds of steam from a dense landscape of air bubbles as the loaves were sliced horizontally, ends slivered off and passed to patiently waiting customers. Each slab was piled with irresistible combinations of freshly cut meats, cheeses, flavored creams, and vegetables.
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