Review: Reverie dreams of the future
By Tom Sietsema Tom Sietsema Food critic Email Bio Follow Food critic May 2 The following review appears in The Washington Post’s 2019 Spring Guide.Spring has sprung, which means Johnny Spero is serving white asparagus in a black cloak . Such intrigue should come as no surprise, given the chef’s history.
Chef-owner Johnny Spero talks to diners at the counter. Reverie’s menu is a mere 16 dishes long, counting dessert; compositions are described in just a handful of words, encouraging conversation with servers. What to make of the word “mushroom,” trailed by “shiso,” “salsify” and “egg yolk fudge”? Make sure to try it, a server practically insists.
The Spanish tortilla, with sherry mayo, paddlefish roe and sea urchin. While I’m singing praises, the bar deserves a shout-out for some nice balancing acts, including “The Business,” a bright spin on bee’s knees, and a rye cocktail that hints of both coffee and figs. “Piccola Italia” could become a habit.
The burger. But Reverie is Spero’s dream, not mine, so I add to my order some hake and some lamb. The fish isn’t immediately apparent when it lands on the table, under a froth of horseradish cream and spicy herbs including Vietnamese cilantro. As the cloud dissipates, we spy white bites of tender steamed hake, along with chewy clams and turnips that — you guessed it — crunch in our mouths. With more attention, the hake has potential for stardom.
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