25 years after the UK handed the city over to China, Hong Kong's suppressed and surveilled people keep freedom alive creatively and furtively.
I began to recognize the hushed tones of many of today’s Hong Kongers. Growing up in punitive Singapore, I’ve long observed a weird conversational antic that occurs when people discuss a topic deemed taboo—things as quotidian as politics, local politicians, even sex.
In such a fearful atmosphere, one has to grow vigilantly observant to see the free expression of what cannot be freely expressed. It was hard to know where to begin to look. From the point of view of a newcomer in 2021, 2019 felt like buried history. The people were mum, but the city itself was making contact—in the shadows and in plain sight. It was speaking to me in a language I did not yet understand.
The city’s architecture bespeaks the literal whitewashing of its psyche, a kind of metaphor for the lobotomy that is being performed on collective memory. As I walk around my pristine and immaculate campus, there is nary a mark that betrays the intensebetween protesters and police from just three years ago. But when the light hits just right, one notes where the white paint is glommed on too thick.
post-its. To the uninformed and uninitiated, this appears as a curious kind of kitschy decor—but far from beingmarked, it tellingly marks a wry challenge to power. Cleverly staging appearance as disappearance,At every moment, at every turn, something is peeking out, waiting to be noticed by the attentive flaneur, nostalgic city-dweller, the amnesic citizen—often barely there yet significant precisely because it shouldn’t be, but is.
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