It's going to take more than a glass to put winemakers at ease, especially when they're faced with a warming climate that's scorching their vines.
Or at least, that’s the theory that animates Tom Gamble, a third-generation farmer who grows 175 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and other Bordeaux varietals off Highway 29 and throughout Napa Valley.
Trellising, for the average drinker, is perhaps not the sexiest part of winemaking. But for growers, how you manage a vine’s growth plays an integral role in how the sun interacts with grapes and, in turn, the compounds that impart a wine’s color, taste and texture. Researchers have instead proposed switching to what’s called a “single high wire trellis system,” which keeps berries higher off the ground and under the shade of more leaves.
By that, he means the image of the mass-produced grapes grown further south, where many vineyards already use single high wire systems to beat the heat. “There's more microbes in a teaspoon of soil than there are human beings on the planet,” said Gamble. “And most of them are dormant.”
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