Feeding the city while fasting: What Ramadan means to NYC’s halal cart workers

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Feeding the city while fasting: What Ramadan means to NYC’s halal cart workers
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Anyone who has lived in New York or visited the city is likely familiar with the smells — and especially, the tastes — of its beloved halal carts.

Ramadan, the holiest month in Islam -- the second-largest and fastest-growing religion in the world -- comes to an end this weekend.Anyone who has lived in New York or visited the city is likely familiar with the smells -- and especially, the tastes -- of its beloved halal carts.

Abstaining all day from food and drink, including water, is no easy feat for anyone, but those whose livelihoods involve serving food may face an added level of difficulty.A Halal cart is shown on the corner of Everitt St and Old Fulton in Brooklyn, N.Y., on April 16, 2022. At these carts, the meat is halal, meaning it was butchered in line with Islamic protocol underscoring hygienic and ethical practices.

For about a century and a half, street vending has been a common entry-point into the job market for New York's immigrants. Since the mid 1800s, several immigrant populations -- including Greeks, Italians and Jews -- have reigned over the city's street food scene at different points. Most recently, it's been New York's Muslim community.

"Chicken over rice is the most popular dish at my cart," Hussain said."But I serve samosas, too." As a South Asian immigrant, he also offers mint chutney, as well as other items and condiments that reflect the food of his personal background. Its founders, Mohamed Abouelenein, Ahmed Elsaka, and Abdelbaset Elsayed, all of whom were born in Egypt, opened their cart in 1990 outside the Hilton hotel on 53rd Street and Sixth Avenue. They sold typical fare found at other carts at the time: hot dogs. During this era, New York saw a rising wave of Muslim immigrants, many of whom began working as cab drivers who'd stop at the stand and suggest that the three friends sell hot, affordable, tasty, familiar halal meals on the go.

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