Keith Corbin’s grandmother helped inspire much of his second act, now unfolding as the chef and co-owner of Alta Adams, one of L.A.’s most celebrated restaurants.
When I first met Keith Corbin, I saw a big man who’s obviously juggling many things at his restaurant in L.A.’s West Adams neighborhood. He’s grilling meats while making decisions about future construction at the restaurant, then jumping into an intense discussion about which wines from vintners of color to purchase.
Chef Keith Corbin prepares ingredients to cook his “California Gombo” in the L.A. Times Test Kitchen. Growing up, there were no set rules. No schedules. No nap times. No square meals. He recalls police raids and finding refuge at the home of his granny, Louella Henderson. Corbin’s story comes through without self-consciousness and in his own language, a language that isn’t the vernacular of the generic streets but the patois of those of us who grew up in Black Los Angeles.
Corbin’s description of his neighborhood compelled me to remember what I experienced in the 1980s teaching at Locke, where the school track course was named to celebrate the achievements of Olympian Valerie Brisco-Hooks, or so I thought. Later I learned the field was named for her brother, Robert, who was shot to death training on the track by someone who was never caught.
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