Since 1887, this California bakery has been serving up the state’s most coveted French roll, but modern pressures are collapsing the business.
Still, the quality of the bread is not enough to ensure success. “The stores used to work with you, they don’t anymore,” Rick says, noting the bakery still turns out between 2,000 and 3,000 units a day. “We could do a hell of a lot more than that. We used to do a lot more. But the big companies buy shelf space.”
Baker Liborio Flores pulls a round from the oven in Bakersfield's Pyrenees French Bakery, the 135-year-old California institution.There was Francisco Ochoa, who carries a fresh pan of loaves into the retail area — some of the last of the day. Then there’s Bakersfield-born Benny Andrade, stopping by as a customer. Andrade, who worked at the bakery for two decades, says his job there “put my kids through college — one’s a doctor and the other’s a teacher.
Rick and Cheri share a laugh about what exactly about the neighborhood — or maybe even the pipes that run underneath the building — gives Pyrenees bread its distinctive flavor. Perhaps, like the bagels or pizza crust in New York, Rick speculates, there’s something in the water that gives the bread a little bit of what makes it extra.Photo By Andrew Pridgen
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