There is great pastrami at Chicago-area Jewish delis, but Tribune food critic nickdk says his favorite is made at barbecue joints.
. But Sietsema is right that there are similarities between how beef is prepared in Texas and pastrami. While it may not have started in Texas, pastrami fits right in with the modern barbecue restaurant.for at least a hundred years. In the 1920s, John P. Harding was even known as “Corned Beef John” in the Tribune for his many Loop restaurants offering the “make ’em before your eyes corned beef sandwich.
After feasting on pastrami for the past month, I’ve come to some conclusions on what makes the best stand out. Most importantly, pastrami loves fat. Disappointing versions looked stiff on the plate because they were lean and dry. Katz’s makes its pastrami with beef navel, a fatty cut from the beef plate. Barbecue joints almost exclusively use brisket, which can work, though it helps when the meat comes from the fattier side.
When done well, pastrami is good enough to eat by itself, though a swipe of mustard is never a bad idea. Some barbecue spots have mustard-based barbecue sauces to this effect, which can be intriguing. While I do enjoy a good Reuben, places that drown the meat in too much creamy Russian dressing are usually just covering up disappointing beef.
I’ve divided my findings into three categories: barbecue, deli and restaurant pastrami. Each offers a different experience. My favorite deli pastrami is made with beef navel and has very little smoke flavor. Restaurant pastrami tends to use brisket, along with a more complex spice rub. There are exceptions, but that’s life. Here is the best pastrami in Chicago.
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