Yess Restaurant serves some of the most quietly ambitious cooking to emerge in Los Angeles this year.
From 20-course omakase tasting menus to snug sushi bars, here’s where to find the best and freshest sushi in Los Angeles.
On the menu they translate to dishes like whole rockfish stuffed with fennel, lemon and other aromatics, cooked in parchment just until opaque and splashed with gentle citrus ponzu. Or a few small hunks of grilled black cod, shaved corn and mochi rice steamed in fig leaves until they’ve absorbed its distinct herbal-nutty earthiness.
It’s the walk-the-walk approach to seasonality and talent for direct flavors that brought Yamasaki acclaim early in his career in London. For five years he ran Koya, an udon bar that attracted regulars devoted equally to the excellent noodles and to the small plates that revealed his penchants for produce and nuance.
There is also the cost. Prices for more substantial dishes run from $28 to $55, and large-format platters like the whole fish skirt $80. Those fall in the same range as many of the always-packed finer-dining options across Los Angeles, but this is a semi-hidden unknown on a solitary corner during a summer when vital factions of the city’s entertainment industry are on monthslong strike.
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