See every look from Willie Norris for Outlier's spring 2023 collection:
Just off McCarren Park in Brooklyn are the offices of Outlier and Willie Norris, its design director of seven years. Since establishing her Ideas series four season ago, Norris has expanded Outlier’s lexicon to subtly encompass her own intrinsically queer verbiage. Ideas 4: “New Math” sees her blur this line further.
A starting point for her this season was Bernard Rudofsky’s 1947 essay “Are Clothes Modern?” and a twist on the title of his 1964 book “Architecture Without Architects.” “I’ve been trying to think about what fashion design is without fashion designers, or without the rules made up for us by us,” Norris says. This season, rather than projecting ideas for a collection into the future, she took it day by day, operating as a designer without the often self-imposed mania that comes with the job.
Where all of this comes into play is in a lineup for spring that reimagines wardrobe staples with the technical Outlier treatment and the subversive Norris touch. In the tailoring space, the season’s hero is an ankle length blazer cut in injected linen, an Outlier signature. Offered in solid and a trompe l’oeil that evokes a jacket-over-dress louche silhouette, it is unlined and surprisingly light.
Outlier is known for exact, technical menswear. Its cult status derives from the time its fans spend on Reddit or Discord assessing its fabrics, cut, and fit. But how do you visually refresh a world built on a quiet exterior that is all about subtle details? “Novelty in a smart, technical way,” is the answer conjured by Norris, who says she used to grapple with the concept of function in the past, “but now I see it differently, that function can just be visual.
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