Recently, and happily, Tex-Mex and barbecue have been getting together and comparing notes, so to speak. “Tex-Mex barbecue” is a real-deal cuisine on its own, manifested in the now ubiquitous barbecue taco.
It is a rite-of-passage for every Texan to sit at a table at your local Tex-Mex joint, nursing a frozen margarita , only to hear “Hot plate!” shouted from behind you as a bubbling mass of cheese, chili-con-carne and wrapped tortillas is dropped in front of you.
Central Texas-style barbecue can be traced to the meat markets of early 19th century located around Austin. In the days before refrigeration, butchers would cook cuts of beef at the end of the week before they spoiled. On Sundays, migrant workers and locals would head to meat markets for a meal of smoked beef shoulder or brisket, along with accoutrements such as cheese, bread, pickles and onions.
One story credits the birth of the dish to the Old Borunda Café in Marfa. Opened in 1887 by Tula Borunda Gutierrez, the cuisine here combined the best of Texan, Mexican and New Mexican food.
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