Dry Lambrusco is delicious—why is it also so hard to find?
—from manually harvested grapes on relatively small plots, which undergo long second fermentations or are naturally bottle fermented—understandably come in very finite quantities, even more so when you tack on international distribution. And in the shadow of the still-dominant mass-market Lambruscos, “it takes time to change things,” says Julia Prestia, co-owner of Venturini Baldini, .
Since that summer of 2018, Lambrusco has claimed a prime spot in my regular drinking rotation. No, scratch that. I drink it whenever the hell I can find it—which has become maddeningly infrequently. Yet as folks up and down the Lambrusco supply chain gently remind me, coolness in the eyes of a handful of editors does not beget an endless supply of this ruby sparkler.“It’s still a work in progress,” says Prestia.
“Working at this store for three or four years, I definitely have seen an evolution in the type of questions asked, but I also think it could be demographic-based,” Brunson says. “This neighborhood skews more wine knowledgeable—customers who work in restaurant service, or who own or grew up in food- or wine-based businesses come in asking what’s new or interesting in that way.”
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