The acclaimed chef behind Pujol in Mexico City talks about the famous dish and how best to prepare it.
Enrique Olvera relents only after everyone insists he take over the music at The Washington Post’s Food Lab, where he’s preparing salsas and pressing tortillas from fresh masa. The chef behind celebrated Mexican restaurants in Mexico City and New York City — both claim spots on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list — wants to hear Toña La Negra, and the late vocalist’s smoky contralto soon fills the room, as sensuous as the food Olvera puts on a plate.
One requirement for mole, I’ve read, is that every ingredient is manipulated in some way before it’s incorporated into the dish. Do you think that’s true? [Laughs] That’s probably a fire hazard, indeed. Mexican cooking responds to a different set of techniques. If you’re used to cooking French or Italian or some kind of European cuisine, everything in Mexican food is almost contradictory to that. If not contradictory, at least radically different. Classical French is a cuisine that has evolved through novelty. Mexican food was always in the markets, in the houses, in very casual restaurants. I think that is the difference.
I saw in one recipe where a cook was using Ritz crackers to thicken her mole, and it made me wonder where processed foods fit into the dish.
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