When Low-Alcohol Wine Is a High Priority

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When Low-Alcohol Wine Is a High Priority
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Wines for summer sipping—minus the next-day headache

I SPENT A WEEK, recently, drinking “virtuous” wines—and the experience was only occasionally fun.

By virtuous I mean low in alcohol; a friend applied the adjective when I described the wines I was tasting for this column. Frequently the association of low alcohol with virtue has to do with the natural wine movement, as many wines in that category are low in alcohol and fans seem to consider them inherently virtuous . It might also be attributed to the group of California winemakers who launched...

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