'Since I don’t assign stars in my own reviews, I’ll assess the Los Angeles portion of Michelin’s California guide with four words instead: well-intentioned but condescending,' BillAddison writes.
didn’t rate higher: Maybe someone found the 18-seat setting in a Santa Monica mall claustrophobic , even when the scoring is supposedly all about the food? And I’m perplexed that Bistro Na’s, among so many more compelling options in the wonder that is the San Gabriel Valley, managed its single star. This outlet of a Beijing-based restaurant group is the opposite of Dialogue: a far grander setting, a lot of mediocre cooking.
” — with an icon of “Bibendum,” a.k.a. the Michelin Man, licking his chops — was first introduced in 1955 as a marker for a recommendable, affordable meal. Last year, worldwide, the guide incorporated another, lesser symbol:, or the Michelin Plate. Its press materials note that the plate indicates “restaurants where the inspectors have discovered quality food.”
Republique, one of the great all-day restaurants in Los Angeles and the United States, merits nothing more than a Plate by Michelin’s grading standards, which is a joke. Same withPlate designations fill out the guide, and they call attention to some places that rightly deserve recognition.
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