'For far too long we have limited ourselves—out of some perverse culinary myopia—to churned dairy products made of at least 10 percent milk fat, less than 1.4 percent egg yolk, and weighing at least 4.5 pounds per gallon.'
Isn’t that what the kids say these days? It should be. Booza is a Middle Eastern ice cream made with ground orchid root and tree resin, and before I go on about it—which I could for a while—I’d like to point out that booza is just one of a breathtaking variety of iced desserts on offer this summer. Whatever nadirs of democracy we’ve reached, we have ascended a pinnacle of frozen treats. Ours is a sweetened and chilled golden age! It is an ice-cream belle epoque.
Our horizons are finally expanding. A worldliness has taken hold—the same one that landed ramen and poke in the mainstream—along with a coinciding openness to plant milks and plant-based foods in general. What sentient oat milk–loving cosmopolitanhave her interest piqued by a scoop of tahini-flavored Indian kulfi? You’d have to be from the seventeenth century.I’m glad you asked.
This order imposed, some opinions emerged, which I report from memory. Many of the plant-based ice creams were found too icy. This iciness, some complained, exaggerated flavor. The richest nondairy candidates were made with coconut milk. The issue with coconut ice cream, though, is that its flavor is so strong that all varieties taste like coconut hyphenates. The contrarian declared an adamant objection to the entire category of nondairy ice creams.
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