Washington Post restaurant critic Tom Sietsema still has things to say.
Sietsema has no plans to follow his peers to retirement anytime soon. The critic tells me he’ll continue in his job “as long as I’m happy and can do it” and as long as “my employer wants it and readers want it.” His predecessor, Phyllis Richman, held the position for nearly 24 years, an anniversary that Sietsema is quickly approaching.
Sietsema is well aware of the criticisms that come with holding a powerful job with no term limits. “I realize, every day, I’m a white male waking up, and there are a lot of people who think they might do a better job with the position, or why has he been in there so long?,” he says.
Beyond the ubiquity of smartphones and the internet , the pandemic is responsible for some of the biggest shifts in how the job of critic has changed. For starters, he has temporarily given up awarding stars. He’s still mulling over when stars may return: “We are still in a pandemic. I think restaurants continue to struggle and figure things out.”
One thing Sietsema has no plans to change: his attempts at anonymity. Never mind that he’s widely recognized in restaurants by. If—and this is a huge if—he did ever decide to give up the Mystery Man schtick, he wouldn’t publicly proclaim it.
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