Valerie Bertinelli wants us all to indulge

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Valerie Bertinelli wants us all to indulge
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Valerie Bertinelli, actress and food personality, finds freedom in the kitchen with her new cookbook, after years of deprivation.

turned 60, a switch flipped. The years preceding that birthday had been defined by dietary abnegation: policing calories, frowning at the digits she saw on the scale, chasing purity at the expense of pleasure.

Her break came in 1975, when the showrunner Norman Lear decided to reshoot the pilot for the sitcom that would become “” . As the younger of two daughters to a divorced single mom, Bertinelli’s Barbara Cooper was the picture of precocity, displaying her rapier wit in zippy one-liners. But her food television career began in earnest in 2015. The TV Land sitcom “Hot in Cleveland,” in which she had a starring role, came to an unceremonious end after five years. The same year an offer came to host “Kids Baking Championship” on the Food Network.

With its embrace of maximalism and comfort, “Indulge” is part of a recent pushback in food publishing against rigorous self-discipline and abstinence.’ has definitely heightened the stakes, but I see this cultural moment of semi-rejection of diet culture norms as being long overdue,” said Emma Specter, author of the forthcoming “More, Please,” a book on binge eating disorder out from Harper in July, in an email.

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