For MaisonValentino's couture show, a diverse cast of models wearing Pierpaolo Piccioli's dreamy couture designs descended the Spanish Steps to a performance by Labrinth as the sun set behind the Roman landmark.
Piccioli, however, insisted before the show that this stage was a way to speak up about issues that are dear to him. The Spanish Steps are not only known internationally, but in the ‘80s and ‘90s was the set for a televised multibrand fashion show called “Woman Under the Stars.” Piccioli recalled watching the event from the sidelines several times as a young student — hence his decision to invite 120 fashion and art students to the“Nothing has changed but everything has changed,” said Piccioli.
This modern take on couture has been easily embraced by Valentino’s seamstresses, who took a bow with Piccioli, as is customary for the designer. He recounted how Antonietta, aged 82, responded when told that a boy with long pink hair — fond of skating and rap — would be wearing a lime chiffon and organza ruffled dress for the show: “Let’s just make sure to measure his waist so that the dress falls over his hips the right way,” she merely said, showing no surprise or misgivings.
While he does not believe in simply and directly referencing Garavani’s work, examples included his take on the first Valentino red dress, the Fiesta, which debuted in 1959. Piccioli created a stunning lightly padded taffeta jacket drowned in red roses. Feathers were a recurring embellishment, embroidered on a red peacoat, for example, or on a neon green chiffon and organza pleated dress.
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