The Sunny's pop-up was such a hit, diners demanded the owners bring it back permanently.
But in their full-on embrace of South Florida weather, owners Will Thompson and Carey Hynes have created the most Miami steakhouse imaginable, one where casually dressed diners sit at white linen-topped tables encircling a fairy-tale-of-a-banyan tree. It’s a scene, but not“Because Miami is so hot, it forces you to rethink the steakhouse context,” says Thompson, who manages the bar program and front of house.
Sunny’s is a Covid-19 baby. In 2018, Thompson and Hynes, both Northeastern transplants, opened Jaguar Sun in downtown Miami. With just 36 seats, the pandemic meant they could shut down their popular cocktail bar or open outdoors. They chose the latter, but rather than expand onto a hot, cramped sidewalk, they settled into an abandoned roofing factory/events space in Little River, an old Miami neighborhood with a recent burst of development.
A meal at Sunny’s is a high acid, high contrast affair. Hynes leans into heat, especially with raw fish preparations à la habanero-laced tuna tartare, wahoo crudo with serranos and sea bass crudo with spicy buttermilk. Raw oysters are one-slurp, tiradito-ish bites with a trio of yuzu kosho, pineapple-habanero and kiwi-grapefruit mignonettes.
Even so, it’s a steakhouse. Entrées are the raison d’être, and Sunny’s serves one to fit every speed, mood, diet and weather pattern. Vegetarians can get a cauliflower. There’s grilled dry-aged wagyu ribeye for power diners. A hanger steak, half chicken and duck breast are the stuff of regulars. On a swampy day, I might swap my order from beef to turbot.
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