Just announced as the luxury train's new chef, Jean Imbert reveals what goes into crafting gourmet meals on the rails.
, with Imbert on board, is taking place just before the VSOE kicks off its 2022 season. As the train makes its way northwest, I sit down with Imbert, who tellsin 2019, was searching for a chef, he wrote a heartfelt letter sharing how happy the prospect of such an opportunity made him. “It was one chance in a million, but I put all my energy into this one chance,” he recalls.For Imbert to want to take on a project, it must possess “character, a legacy,” he points out.
Inspired by vintage VSOE menus, Imbert’s dishes are all closely linked to quality purveyors who can provide ingredients like morels, peaches and figs to reflect the shifting seasons. At the same time, they must be reliable, as finding consistent partners is one of the logistical hurdles of cooking on a train. “I’m always concerned with the raw products.
While the chicken had been prepared à la minute in one of the two petite 118-square-foot kitchens, the asparagus paired with Parmesan, capers and blood orange that had preceded it was made prior, in Venice. Breakfast, a just-baked batch of Maison Kayser pastries delivered straight to the cabins, is also a trustier option than depending, say, on an early morning croissant shipment.
Imbert is acclimating to the mobile restaurant life with an assist from executive sous chef Igor Maccagnan, who has been with VSOE for 16 years, and general manager Pascal Deyrolle, a Belmond veteran. “VSOE should stay true to its past,” says Deyrolle, “but it shouldn’t be a museum.” The addition of Imbert, who helped update the menus, the dinnerware and the design of the restaurant cars, is one vibrant aspect of the brand’s ongoing evolution.
One-night journeys start at approximately $4,395.37 per person for a twin cabin, and approximately $15,080 per person for a Grand Suite, both based on double occupancy. Rates include meals and a welcome glass of Champagne; all other beverages are extra.
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