The Return of Cognac—In Cocktail Form

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The Return of Cognac—In Cocktail Form
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The variant of brandy is returning to favor, thanks to its use as a base spirit for several festive cocktails

. Three bars offer ways to freshen up this old-school tippleThe French 75 is a quintessential champagne cocktail, a fizzy mix of bubbly, gin, lemon juice and sugar.

But an early, lesser-known recipe for the concoction employs another French import instead of the gin: cognac, the grape-based brandy that was once among the most ubiquitous spirits in mixed drinks. By the early 1900s, when the French 75 was introduced, cognac wasn’t so common, partially due to the mid-1800s phylloxera epidemic, which had diminished production.

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