Sam Buckley doesn't think he'll get a Michelin star. It might not be up to him
“I love that we’re right above Ann Summers,” says Sam Buckley, chef and owner of Stockport restaurant Where The Light Gets In, as he hikes up the winding car park steps. “It just caps it off.” He’s showing me the garden that he’s made on top of the Merseyway shopping centre. It’s called The Landing, because it’s in the flight path. Shoppers mill around the pedestrianised streets below, quite unaware of it.
He loves having become a gardener as well as a chef. “When you see that first thing pop out of the ground, and you've grown it, you don't want to cook it! It's like a baby! You carry it back to the restaurant. I mean that doesn't last long, but as cliched as it is, the recipe starts in the soil,” he says.
One of them is the WTLGI spin-off bakery Yellowhammer, which as well as spectacular bread, also boasts its own ceramics studio. There’s a great record shop in SK1 Records, a bewilderingly trendy magazine and book shop, more clothes shops, tattoo parlours, all reviving this neglected part of town. Sam is a massive fan of the new chip shop too, the Salty Towers Fish Bar.
Later, he describes the dishes that come out of the kitchen - there’s no menu, you pay a set price and get what you’re given, as long as there’s no allergy requirements - as being more like ‘sketches’, and always evolving. Dishes might only be on for a day.
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