How the traditional Vietnamese noodle soup became a staple of LA’s Korean American community. (via eaterla)
has long supported traditional Korean food like the pork belly bossam of Kobawoo House or the marinated crabs of Ondal. But within the confines of Koreatown, Vietnamese pho has experienced exceeding popularity since the early ’90s. Why Vietnam’s national dish, and why in Koreatown? It turns out that steaming bowls of beef broth and chewy rice noodles serve as panaceas for late-night hangovers while also working as quick, satisfying, and reasonably priced family meals.
It makes sense that pho took off for the Korean community, says Daniel Kim, whose family has owned produce purveyors and sushi restaurants in Koreatown since he was a child. “Seolleongtang and soups are things we have in our daily diet that we understand. Pho had condiments and vegetables that we’re used to,” says Kim. “But it was also unique for us, with cilantro and basil. Pho was something different and something familiar at the same time, something accessible.
Compared to traditional Vietnamese pho, Koreatown-style pho is typically lighter and less full-bodied, the broth close to a clearer base of galbitang or seolleongtang than the star anise and fish sauce-forward soups of Garden Grove and Westminster. At Seoul Pho, located on the rooftop food court of California Market, the pho comes with the option of a large beef rib, the broth heavy on garlic, and supplemented with notes of sweetness from a side of pickled red onions.
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