It’s a good night to make gravy—a slow and intentional cooking process that provides a meditative bookend to the week. Try Danny Chau’s recipe, which puts a new twist on the Sunday staple.
In late October, I found an unexpected gift waiting at the bottom of my freezer. Hidden beneath a sliced boule of sourdough and a box of wedding cake was a parcel of beef short ribs wrapped in mauve butcher paper—a forgotten remnant of one ambitious weekend dinner plan or another, neglected for the convenience of roti takeout or pizza delivery.
That’s when the visions began: first a rich Sunday gravy with the intensely savory broth of niu rou mian as its base, then an imaginary nonna, bludgeoning me with her rolling pin for my sins against Italian cuisine.
But the past two decades of popular food culture have seen some vindication for fusion. Finding the nexus point between cuisines can produce clever, inspired dishes; it can also lead cooks through unintended cultural roundabouts.
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