It’s been 20 years since her death, and her legacy still dictates how women dress and, in turn, how designers dress us:
About three months ago, I was knee-deep in some reporting about how those saggy canvas tote bags are obliterating our skeletons when I came across a name that made me pause, Google and then Google again. Perhaps you read the piece when it was published, and perhaps you had the same reaction as I did, which came on quickly and rabidly and introduced a fascination I can only describe as relentless.
Though, the more I read up about her life, the more dizzyingly desperate I became to answer two questions: Who was Bonnie Cashin, and how exactly did she become one of the U.S.'s most influential fashion designers that popular history forgot? One degree of separation led to another, and soon enough, there she was at the source: sitting in Cashin's UN Plaza apartment. The two became fast, fierce friends — so fierce, in fact, that upon Cashin's death three years later, Lake was surprised to learn that Cashin had entrusted her entire design archive, as well as a vast amount of her personal estate, to Lake and Lake alone.
In 1949, Cashin was back in New York designing her first ready-to-wear collection under her own name. The debut received a windfall of acclaim: In 1950, she won both the prestigious Coty Award as well as the Neiman Marcus Fashion Award. She opened her own business, Bonnie Cashin Designs, in 1951. "Women had been out in the workplace while men were at war," says Cynthia Amneus, chief curator and curator of Fashion Arts and Textiles at the Cincinnati Art Museum. The institution regularly features Cashin's work, and in 2015, put on a pop-up exhibit that chronicled her life and career. "Women were wearing coveralls. They were in pants. Suddenly, Dior took them back to corsets and structured clothing and nipped-in waists.
If Cashin had one iconic design job — and she had a lot — it was at Coach. In 1962, Coach's co-founders Miles and Lillian Cahn hired Cashin to spearhead a brand-new women's accessory business under their men's accessory company, Gail Leather Products. Internally, the brand was even known as "the Bonnie Cashin account."
"Bonnie Cashin created that," says Amneus. "The whole idea of separates, of going into your closet and saying, 'I'm going to wear this jacket with this skirt with this blouse,' and it not being a set ensemble. It's how we dress today, but people don't understand where it came from." "She worked as an artist," she says, "and she was not interested in just having people fawn over her." She never registered her own name to prevent licensing throughout and after her career, after her life. Cashin passed away in 2000, and Lake still owns and controls 100% of Cashin's archive.
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