William Mullan has been documenting New York City’s apples and apple trees since 2017, picking fruit in places like Greenwood Cemetery or a Red Hook parking lot — and meeting fellow apple-obsessives along the way
“Some of the best fruit I’ve ever tasted has been from the you-might-die places,” says urban apple expert William Mullan. Photo: Jutharat Pinyodoonyachet I keep asking William Mullan if he’s sure he’s comfortable. “We don’t have to go through with this,” I say. “It’s not too late to reconsider!” But he assures me he’s ready as he unfurls a turquoise rope ladder and removes a long fruit-picking claw from his tote bag.
The plan for the night is to pick some apples from a tree Mullan has been itching to pluck. The catch is that this particular tree is about 17 feet below street level, so, Mullan figures, we can either hop a chain-link fence and descend down, or get in a car, “pop the hazards on, and jump out.” Eventually, he opts to climb.
Growing up in the U.K., Mullan didn’t initially set out for a career in still lifes. But through his marketing duties at Raaka, he began to photograph the chocolate bars. After finding an apple tree during a run in Carroll Gardens, he used his office’s studio off-hours to document his findings, initially just playing around.
By this point, Mullan can find apples that many might miss . Hovering over the BQE, I watch as he uses carabiners to secure his ladder to the fence, and begins his descent; things seem dicey at first as his ladder twists, and trucks roar past. Finally, he hops down the final few feet to firm ground and brandishes his picker.
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