Watchmaking's most famous brand earned that rep by creating some of the world's most iconic timepieces
Rolex’s founder, Hans Wilsdorf, was onto something when he made his company logo a crown – it has remained the king of watch brands for more than a century. Its enormous brand equity is partly because Rolex gives so little away, a key to its mystique. It is frequently ranked first in surveys of super-brands in the UK and is resident inBut this reputation is not mere marketing – Rolex is Rolex because it makes peerless products.
Collectors are particularly passionate about Rolex sports models, which have long been associated with explorers, adventures and athletes. In addition to the famous James Bond Submariner, an early version of the GMT was worn by US flying ace Chuck Yeager as well as several astronauts.
Wilsdorf had a gift for foresight. He bet on the wristwatch very early and each of his major innovations helped create the modern wristwatch as we know it. The downside, some argue, is that Rolex varies its designs even less than other companies: and that’s saying something for the watch world, where a 'revolutionary breakthrough' amounts to a new case size or deploying a slightly different type of gold. There is no Rolex tourbillon, or sign of the zodiac complication.
The counter-argument is that you don’t go messing with perfection. Instead of visible whistles and bells, the company concentrates on research and engineering, continually update the technology inside its watches on the quiet. A more common grumble is that Rolex’s are so hard to buy right now – demand is outstripping supply, at least for some models, while the aftershocks of the pandemic on supply chains is still being felt.
In this way there is every reason to believe the Rolex crown will remain firmly in place for another hundred years, and beyond.
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