Stefano Pilati brought his Random Identities collection to Pitti Uomo, a collection that 'delivered and then some.'
It’s been very nearly four years since Stefano Pilati took his last bow for his Ermenegildo Zegna Couture fall 2016 collection. Last night at Pitti Uomo we got an in-the-flesh look at, the project he has been showcasing and retailing digitally since 2017 from his base in Berlin.
As a manifesto for modern dressing, that statement promised much. What we saw last night in Florence delivered and then some. After a painful wait standing bunched around a red-lit runway in the Stazione Leopolda—one wag joked about this being the first time he’d done Pilati’s for a while —the lights flipped to white. What came next was the most progressively exciting collection of the decade so far—even if we are less than a fortnight into it.
Sure, pretty much everyone wore wide high heels , and there were men in skirts, and women in menswear shirting imprinted in black lace bras. There were, for sure, hints of kink and jolts of allure designed to erode and elude conventional subjectivities. Pilati’s mastery of the creation of devastatingly compelling silhouettes for either side of cis was honed in over a decade at Yves Saint Laurent, as well as that stint at Zegna and earlier manifestations in Miu Miu and Armani.
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