One of Seoul's oldest and best knife-cut noodle soup institutions opens its first U.S. outpost in Los Angeles
To eat in Seoul, South Korea is to believe that there are “specialists” of everything — pastas, stews, sashimi, mackerel jorim, pork-neck and potato stew, barbecue, spicy rice cakes and snack food, and fried chicken, to name a few. The first thing one notices atis that the menu is four items long — and this menu is three items more than what’s offered at their Seoul location.
Hyesung Noodle House here in LA’s Koreatown is Hyesung Kalguksu’s first overseas location. Hyesung’s original owner, Min Sook Kim, spent the first two months since opening running back-of-house operations in Los Angeles, and her son, Steven Bai, will be overseeing operations.The Los Angeles location, tucked into the corner of a mini-mall off Western Ave. facing Thai papaya salad specialist Isaan Station, is a little less spartan than its South Korean counterpart.
The star of the show, the reason why Angelenos will be new additions to the throngs of Seoul commuters already under Hyesung’s spell, is the kalguksu. Thick, doughy knife-cut noodles steeped in a broth of anchovy or chicken sound simple on paper. The chicken kalguksu employs a rich, properly down-home chicken broth lightly brought along with onion. Torn pieces of chicken meat add to the proceedings, but the broth and noodles make the dish.
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