Ruth Carter’s Advice for Aspiring Costume Designers: ‘Be an Out-of-the-Box Thinker’

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Ruth Carter’s Advice for Aspiring Costume Designers: ‘Be an Out-of-the-Box Thinker’
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It took Ruth Carter a while to revisit the night she made history with her Academy Award win for her visionary costume designs for 2018’s “Black Panther.” For a long time, Carter, who has been work…

a while to revisit the night she made history with her Academy Award win for her visionary costume designs for 2018’s “Black Panther.”

That groundbreaking moment would throw open doors for costume designers coming after her, many of whom cite Carter as an influence and integral in helping further their careers. She calls Lee her foundation. “I came up through Spike Lee in New York. I felt I had a solid way of doing things. When I came to Hollywood, everyone was trying to explain to me how this is done: I should never be on set. I should go home. There were all these ways that people had in their minds. It was hard for me to stand my ground. I was bicoastal. [Spike] was my foundation. He was opinionated, very clear and all about us learning together.

“I remember the creativity of it all, and the period of the ’70s. I loved the cultural aspect of the Italians and African Americans and how they viewed what was happening [that summer]. … Working with Spike back in those days was like summer retreat where we were going to all come together and build a story and it was very much a creative experience.

She calls the film one of the biggest challenges of her career as she balanced influences, accuracy and, more importantly, the physical immersion of her designs in water. “We put it underwater, and everything just went up. I had to remake things that were tested. I had to weigh them down, and sometimes they were too light, other times, they were too heavy.”

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