🗣'Arguably there’s never been a tougher time to start a business – so please dear reader, support your local restaurant/pub/caff while you’ve still got them.'
AdvertisementKerridge has warned that the “ludicrous” energy prices mean that the hospitality sector is facing a “terrifying landscape”. He revealed that one of his pubs previously had a monthly electricity bill of £5,000, which will rise to £35,000 in December when its current contract ends.
So it’s with no small amount of joy that I embrace the opening of new places, though how they’re doing it is beyond me; the hike in rent, utilities, staff wages and ingredients. There’s good beer to be found at the friendly Hogs Head and historic Puzzle Inn – so plenty of reasons for food and drink lovers to find the town. Even so it’s not naturally the first place you’d head to for a top shelf tasting menu, something my plus one and I agree on. Our expectations, is has to be said, are low-ish.It turns out we’re seven shades of wrong. Alongside the tasting menus is an a la carte, so there’s a lot going on, and with just Duttine in the kitchen he’s got his work cut out.
We do agree on the joy of seeing a pithivier on a menu, and this one, stuffed with gamey game is no exception – with perfect pastry and sweet root veg it’s autumn on a plate, the little white jug of gravy completing the picture.My lentil and root veg shepherd’s pie doesn’t quite hit the same spot and is a bit clunky – but the pork fillet with Calvados and tart damson isn’t – far from it – it’s a lovely cut and nicely plated up with a finger of perfect crackling.
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