Review: Food critic Tom Sietsema’s favorites in December 2022 include a regal Indian draw in Bethesda, a Korean-flavored steakhouse in Vienna and a French newcomer in D.C.
. The links include service with a smile , drinks as clever as the cooking, and combinations that run busy but never boring.
The putty-colored dining room is loud, and the swinging kitchen door bears scuff marks from shoes kicking it open. That doesn’t stop the gravel parking lot from filling up or couples from filing in for date night. Chef and co-owner Rich Regan says “there’s no barrier to the theme” in the American restaurant he’s run with his wife since 2000.
Any meal is better with a side of chopped onions and green chiles tossed with lime juice and red chili powder, just the joust you want with some of the richer dishes and the homey sort of combination you might find in a home in Seth’s native Mumbai. Vegetarian options abound; gently spiced three-bean cakes with comet tails of sauces make a nice start.
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