Returning to Afghanistan—One Year After the Fall of Kabul

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Returning to Afghanistan—One Year After the Fall of Kabul
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One year after the fall of Kabul, photographer pvanagtmael returned to Afghanistan to capture images of life under Taliban rule.

Kabul fell a year ago this week. Afghanistan—after decades of near-constant violence, rampant corruption, failure to establish a sustainable government, and, to many observers, only limited gains in terms of women’s rights—was back to square one. The end had returned to the beginning. Now, the nation was in the hands of the Taliban, the same fundamentalist faction that had ruled the country from 1996 to 2001.

It’s jarring to see the Taliban on nearly every corner. On my previous trips, I’d feared them. I’d been caught in ambushes, been on patrols hit by roadside bombs, and felt the constant dread of being kidnapped. In Ghazni, Afghanistan, a Taliban fighter walks through a former U.S. and Afghan base filled with destroyed American and Afghan vehicles.My hotel is filled with Chinese workers living in Kabul as they help the new government extract the country’s vast mineral wealth. They’ve brought a chef with them, and I end up eating more Chinese food than Afghan.

A Taliban fighter inhabits an office in a Kabul police station formerly controlled by the Afghan government.The provinces are accessible via National Highway 1, a ring road that circles the major cities of the country. Every so often our car has to slow down because of damage to the highway, the result of the roadside bombings that, during the war, had targeted Afghan and coalition convoys. Small outposts dot the road and the landscape.

In a safe house in Kabul, an ex-translator for the U.S. and Canadian armies watches television with his family. They have been waiting months for a smuggler to bring them to Pakistan.Members of the intelligence services are everywhere. At our hotel in Ghazni, when I open my door to the courtyard, a silhouette suddenly flits back into the shadows. Shortly afterward, I hear a knock. A colleague and I are asked to go downstairs for a chat with the local intelligence officer.

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