From its rarity to its undeniable versatility, timepiece made of precious metals are a collector's favourite for a multitude of reasons.
From its rarity to its undeniable versatility, timepieces made of precious metals are a collector’s favourite for a multitude of reasons.For majority of the 20th century, precious metals were the most highly valued materials in watchmaking. The undeniable versatility of steel or the elegance found in platinum, and the classic feel of gold watches are what drives the appeal of these rare timepieces.
To illustrate, I will use the Rolex Submariner as a benchmark since this collection features steel and precious metal variants – though not platinum. Reference 126610LN in steel is $13,890 while reference 126618LN in yellow gold is $52,340. That is a close to fourfold increase, which anyone can see has little to do with the price of gold. In Oystersteel and yellow gold, reference 126613LB, the price is $20,290, which seems a happy confluence.
This is all tied to industry conventions, or perceived ones at least. The perception of value is king. Whatever anyone tells you, one cannot really tell platinum apart from white gold or steel, at least not by sight alone. For this reason, certain tropes, such as Rolex using a smooth bezel for its platinum Day-Date models made sense. This particular Day-Date defied the brand’s established conventions, and casual observers might think it a reasoned and calculated move.
We think this approach is exciting from the perspective of countering some of the purported nouveau riche connotations of two-tone watches. When the metals coming together are the same colour , then the fact that there is a precious metal in play becomes something of a secret pleasure, more for the wearer than for anyone else. Both Parmigiani Fleurier and Montblanc have all but said as much in explanations about these moves.
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