The Critique by Robin Givhan: Fear of God’s Jerry Lorenzo is part of a new generation of Black entrepreneur-designers who are remaking fashion.
wearing a mask, was among the last to claim a place — his recent antisemitic tirades trailing him like a dust cloud.Fashion has always been a form of personal expression, a way of both publicly proclaiming your identity and privately luxuriating in it. People wear Fear of God’s minimalist and roomy wool overcoats to announce their allegiance to quiet luxury.
But fashion’s capacity for fuller, more nuanced storytelling is most evident on a runway. Lorenzo used his first show to acknowledge that people are shaped by their history even when they successfully break free of it — no matter whether that history is something learned at a parent’s knee rather than experienced firsthand., the stage went dark, and a soundtrack echoed with tambourine and clapping hands pounding out a rhythm behind a series of monologues in the cadence of the Black church.
The juxtaposition of lithe men and women in luxurious trappings strolling a catwalk to such a devastating song was jarring. They moved unhurried and with ease in roomy trousers in shades of midnight and cream, loosefitting jackets in butterscotch and extravagant furry overcoats in marigold. The complexity was in the story of how those clothes came to be. The pain of the past was embedded in their beauty.
As Lorenzo noted backstage after the show, his goal for the evening was to tell the full story about how he arrived at this place of success and privilege. His father, a former baseball player and manager, would “tell me stories about his grandma picking cotton,” Lorenzo said. And now the designer has people sending him fabric swatches from Italian mills so he can choose the cotton — or wool or cashmere — for his collection.The show underscored that journey.
“With the music, I wanted to share a part of the Christian journey, the Black journey, and not the parts that people just like to pick and celebrate,” Lorenzo said. “It’s a beautiful journey, but it’s even more beautiful if you pay attention to every part of it and understand why it is what it is.”
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