After all, cheese is at its best when made with spring milk.
As the lilies and irises poke up through the dirt to signal spring, we'll be taking a cue from the French and eagerly digging into the first goat cheeses of the season. It's a general rule that artisan cheese is at its best when made with spring milk—after a winter diet of dry hay and feed, the flush of nutritious tender grass, herbs, and wildflowers helps dairy animals to produce richer milk, with more depth of flavor.
Gwen and Patrick Apfel met in business school and worked in the tech industry before moving to France, where their appreciation of goat cheese evolved into a shared passion. In 2012, they enrolled in a cheese-making training program in Burgundy, and two years later, they started their fledgling cheese business in St. Johnsville, New York.
Goat's milk Robiolas range from fresh and fluffy, with just a whisper of bloomy rind, to molten, pungent stink bombs. They are produced on several small, rural farms, and the types available here in the US are always changing. Luigi Guffanti imports many of the Robiolas sold in the States, including some well-aged, practically liquefied versions. The runnier types take on spiced, gamey notes that shine with a scoop of quince jam or figCabra Raiano, an unpasteurized goat cheese from Portugal.
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