A delicious road trip to the home of “the grand dame of Southern cooking”
Gordonsville Ice House is one of two establishments in Gordonsville that are part of the menu trail.
As a chef in the area, Hartman has long researched the food of central Virginia, which is how he got to know the story of Lewis. “We need to get people to understand that Orange County is the home of the mother of Southern cuisine,” he said — and he’s starting with his staff.
“The coconut cake I’ll probably keep at [The Barbeque Exchange] forever." --chef and owner Craig HartmanCoopers Cookin and Catering in Orange. Co-owner Denise Thompson was born and raised in Gordonsville. Like Lewis’s, her restaurant’s recipes have been passed down from one generation to the next. Thompson decided to open her restaurant to honor her mother and the other matriarchs in her family, whose pictures are displayed on the dining room wall. She recalls hearing stories from her mother and grandmother about how they sold food at the railroad tracks. “Gordonsville is the fried chicken capital of the world,” Thompson said. “The guys from the [Civil] War used to come through, and they used to feed them.
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