Mocked, maligned and ignored, Cal-Mex dining is a testament to our state's true history — and the food is glorious
An exclusive behind-the-scenes look at Tito’s Tacos’ crunchy tacos, from the tortilla factory to the commissary kitchen to the actual restaurant.
What was offered then — albondigas, picadillo and empanadas, among other treats — is familiar to us today, but not the name under which those eaters knew the cuisine as: “Spanish.” It was an ethnic label born from the decision of Californios who, when faced with eradication after the Mexican-American War,instead of their Mexican heritage in order to survive in a new country that saw anything “Mexican” as suspect.
USC professor and MacArthur grant recipient Natalia Molina describes such restaurants as “urban anchors” that allowedto publicly celebrate who they were in a society that otherwise rejected them, and gave them a place to hold banquets, gather for causes or just party.
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