More than Mardi Gras: The History of Creole Cuisine in Los Angeles

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More than Mardi Gras: The History of Creole Cuisine in Los Angeles
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A history of Creole food in Los Angeles

in the United States outside of Louisiana. News of friends and family prospering in California inspired others to follow suit. Job opportunities primarily came from the automobile, rubber, and steel industries, which saw a post-war defense production boom spearheaded by the U.S.

Between Harold & Belle’s and Hungry Harold’s, a burger stand run by son Harold Leagaux Jr., the Legaux family was successful in the hospitality industry. However, more heated exchanges in the bar foreshadowed a changing environment. Civil rights movements of the late ‘60s and early ‘70s echoed the Black community’s remaining frustrations from the Watts Riots. The people were demanding change.

Support from Clark’s prior customers and word of mouth resulted in increased business for the restaurant. Everyone from politicians to celebrities like Halle Berry and Denzel Washington visited Uncle Darrow’s. The success was great, but Clark and his family were focused on consistency. “You get one chance to get a good impression,” he said.

The racial reckoning of summer 2020 created a platform for Black-owned Creole restaurants to showcase the diversity of Black American foodways. Harold & Belle’s saw a spike in customers, but no significant boost in revenue. Darrow’s New Orleans Grill reported no difference. Like many others, they still faced the harsh ultimatum of a post-COVID restaurant industry — adapt or perish.

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