As a key stop on the Great Migration, the Maasai Mara is one of Africa's biggest draws. But go beyond and you can find quieter parks for budget-friendly ways to spot big cats and more
Few visitors to Kenya can resist the siren call of its top wildlife-watching area, the Maasai Mara. Its sweeping grasslands — blonde and close-cropped in the dry season, green and earthy after rain — stretch for hundreds of miles. Famous for big cats and the drama of the Great Migration, this is the kind of place where a budding interest in all things safari can develop into an addiction.
During the Great Migration, which visits Kenya between July and September, vast herds of wildebeest and zebras hover nervously on the riverbanks, waiting to cross. Their fear is well-placed: crocodiles lurk in the water, ready to snap. For visitors, witnessing such scenes can be life-changing. But with wildlife in residence all year, the Mara is compelling off-season, too. And, as a bonus, once the milling migrants have finally dispersed, prices tend to plummet.
Partly council-managed, partly community-owned, the Mara is several parks in one. While some camps charge a fortune for an all-inclusive, fly-in experience in a private conservancy, affordable alternatives also exist. If you can stretch to a group tour or a rented 4x4 vehicle, with or without a driver, head west to the delightful and relatively crowd-free Mara Triangle. Here, it’s possible to pitch a tent at a public campsite and let the wilderness work its magic.
The villages of Sekenani or Talek also make good-value bases. Located just outside the main reserve, they’re cheap to reach by matatu or shared taxi from Narok, which is on bus routes from the capital Nairobi. The low-cost camps and guesthouses in these villages organise group drives into the reserve.
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