Comforting noodles nestled in an earthy, pork broth. No tiny copper pots required.
“It’s not citrusy acid like in Southeast Asia. It’s vinegary acid,” says New York City–based chef Simone Tong, who was born in the neighboring province of Sichuan. Tong is currently behind the toque at Silver Apricot, a Chinese American farm-to-table restaurant and wine bar in New York City. But before that she headed up a concept called Little Tong dedicated to Yunnan-inspired rice noodles. This was one of the most well-lauded dishes. “I even got the copper pots to cook with,” she says.
The recipe below is Tong’s rendition of the Kunming classic, adapted for the U.S. Yunnan is rich in wild, edible leafy greens, and the noodles are usually paired with whatever is in season. But because of the limitations of American produce and pickles, Tong uses bok choy and shredded pickled mustard stems instead.
“I decided that I am not going to make authentic Yunnanese food because when it comes to authenticity, there’s a lot of respect, a lot of terroir, and a lot of ingredients you have to get from the locals. You can’t claim to be authentic. I can claim to be delicious. I can claim to be inspired by the region.”
Instead of making pork broth from scratch, if time and energy demand, you can substitute 8 cups low-sodium chicken stock. And if you can’t find garlic chives, you can substitute regular chives, although the flavor won’t be the same. —
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