Order the San Gabriel Valley newcomer's lu rou fan, glazed pork belly served with rice and a collage of condiments — just one of Luyixian's braised specialties.
, is but one expression among the range of Taiwanese restaurants across Los Angeles. Tao and Ye readily acknowledge its popularity; theirs is a variation built on a family recipe for braised pork.Ye also composes other variations of the rice plate, swapping in different cuts of pork, beef and chicken. I tend to stick with the pig — there’s one using braised boneless “pork elbow” that includes velvety slices of meat and thin, delicious slivers of skin.
Many customers fog their glasses while hovering over bowls of beef noodle soup, the broth of which seems to vary a little each time I order it. A heady hit of ginger or star anise may come through faintly or more pronounced; the weight of the stock can be lighter or richer. It’s always pleasant. I ask for the soup spicy so it tingles with a subtle voltage of Sichuan peppercorns.
To round out the meal, consider a cucumber salad, juicy and garlicky, and the excellent water spinach with the fermented tofu that adds nothing more than a ripple of umami. If you’re skipping beef noodle soup and yan du xian, order the shepherd’s purse wontons filled with pork and greens that drift silkily in clear broth.
Fried rice? Kung pao chicken? Dan dan noodles? Those options don’t really show off the kitchen’s strengths. Come for the braised pork over rice. And show up day or night. For their first restaurant in the United States, Tao and Ye are logging some serious hours. Luyixian is open from 11 a.m. to midnight daily.
Chun Hua Tao and Yao Ye at Luyixian, where the platters of braised minced pork are served over shine rice.
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