Pine & Crane's new location picks up where Vivian Ku's breakfast pop-up Today Starts Here left off.
Now they’re available five days a week. Pine & Crane’s downtown location opens at 8 a.m. Thursday through Monday. The mod dining room — which opens onto a sunny, spacious patio — can be quiet so far on weekday mornings. Friendly staffers encourage lingering.
The fan tuan is as energizing as ever. So is the bowl of soy milk, garnished similarly with still-crisp hunks of youtiao, pork floss, preserved vegetables and scallions with drizzles of vinegar and chile oil. The acid works its coagulation alchemy, slowly transforming the milk into silken tofu. Pair it with palm-size savory pies stuffed with scrambled egg, chives and vermicelli noodles, or daikon rice cakes freckled with diced shiitakes and crowned with fried shallots.
If you’re sticking around, home in on the range of Taiwanese oolong teas — from delicate, almost buttery shan lin xi to smoky-rich dong ding roasted over charcoal. Few restaurants invest in proper brewing equipment, but this one does. A timer, a steeping pot with a plunger, a decanter and a cup: It’s not complicated, but it makes such a difference. The tea service, as much as the breakfast and the relaxed scene, persuades me to keep returning.
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