“The fashion industry loves to say when a scandal happens, we’ll do better, we’re listening, we’re learning, and it may be for a little while, but it always returns back to where it was,” says KarenElson_. So now, the supermodel is repping herself
Photo: Emily Dorio On a photo shoot a few years ago, Karen Elson, the flame-haired, ghost-pale English model, was put into a tank of water meant to suggest the sea. But the water, a dull greenish-gray, wasn’t as photogenic as she was. Faced with the dreary intrusion of reality getting in the way of the shot, someone on the set got the idea that maybe dumping in a few bottles of bleach might help.
Elson in this February’s Moschino digital fashion show. Photo: Handout/Moschino via Getty Images She never sent the flowers. But the wall was a long time coming. Elson has had a remarkably successful, 25-plus-year career in the industry, from signing at 15 with a local modeling agency near her home in the north of England to quickly conquering the world.
In the absence of any formal union, it is up to models to advocate for themselves and each other. The closest thing to a SAG or anything like it is the Model Alliance, a labor-advocacy group formed in 2012 . “We run a model-support line where we hear from models every single day, about a host of issues, and a lot of issues around modeling agencies in particular,” says Sara Ziff, its founding director.
Which leaves career survival up to the model’s gameness to roll with it, whatever it might be. “Part of me being a great model was that I would do anything,” Elson says. “All right, I’ll jump out of that building if the photographer wants me to jump out of the building. Or, at times, take my clothes off, because I feel too scared to say no, because maybe I’ll get retaliated against or viewed as difficult.
Elson has lately been giving advice to young models on Instagram and setting up group-mentorship sessions on Zoom, and the responses she has gotten privately — from her own generation as well as younger ones — suggest that the hazards of the job are as present as they’ve ever been. “I used to think maybe it was my era when all these really terrible things happen,” she says. “But I was really shocked how many top models reached out to me with pertinent stories.
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