Daily News | Jean-Georges, Philadelphia’s most expensive restaurant falls short — again
It feels like stepping onto a rocket ship of gastronomic promise, this glass-enclosed elevator at the Comcast Technology Center. The doors close silently behind you. The floor accelerates into a tummy-tickling liftoff, and ...Up you go, 60 floors skyward in 60 seconds flat to the Four Seasons Hotel, whose orchid wall of a lobby welcomes you to what should be the most spectacular dining perch in Philadelphia.
I did not anticipate the risk of shabby cooking. Again. After an extended closure due to the pandemic, an international search for fresh chef The three ivory spears on my plate were fanciful, indeed, fussily ornamented by a tweezer brigade that had meticulously placed tufts of herbs and flower petals along every inch of their length. Too bad the cold spears were thoroughly waterlogged and fibrous.
The initial caviar course Sühr created to follow the amuses was a clever riff on bubble tea in which delicate beads of golden ossetra were doused in almond milk to be slurped up through a glass straw. It was playful and daring, and, perhaps, too different for some. By my following meal, it had been replaced by a poached egg topped with caviar and yogurt foam, a traditional presentation that wasn’t just boring, but also redundant to the caviar egg toast served just prior.
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